Welcome to LiteHawk's FAQ section for MINI SCOUT



Welcome to the newest addition to the LiteHawk Mini collection!

The MINI SCOUT brings an all new desert racer body design to the already diverse LiteHawk Mini R/C lineup. Fully detachable and highly durable - the body design takes inspiration from other LiteHawk vehicles such as the SCOUT and ACE.

Zip across any surface both indoors and out! The MINI SCOUT is much more powerful than its size suggests; hit speeds of 20 KM/H (12 mph) and turn on a dime! MINI SCOUT comes equipped with rubber tires for impressive grip and a powerful rear mounted motor. Run time is up to 12 minutes! 

Like all LiteHawk products, MINI SCOUT is factory tested and ready to run. Everything needed to run the vehicle is included in the box. Remote, vehicle battery, charging peripherals, instructions, and the MINI SCOUT are all included.


  • Fully assembled and ready for adventure!
  • Indoor and Outdoor use
  • 12 Minute Run Time!
  • Rear 2 wheel drive
  • New desert racer body style
  • Powerful rear mounted motor
  • Ajustable mechanical front wheel trim
  • 2.4Ghz Digital Controller with soft steering wheel and fully proportional throttle.
  • Custom decal sheet included
  • Rechargeable battery included
  • USB charger included
  • Collector colors
  LiteHawk R/C Car and Truck Terms 101
Transmitter: The hand-held radio unit that sends throttle and steering inputs to your model. Also known as the radio or controller.
Servo: Small motor unit in your model that operates the steering mechanism.
ESC: The Electronic Speed Control provides digital proportional throttle control to the model’s motor based upon your throttle input on the radio.

  LiteHawk MINIs- 2.4Ghz Radio

 Your LiteHawk MINI comes with a 2.4 Ghz radio system, which allows you to play without the fear of ever losing control! Race or play with countless other drivers. The range of your model is approximately 250 ft. which, due to its small size, is in excess of normal vision. The  farther the model goes away from you the smaller it will become and the harder it will be to determine the model's direction. We suggest you stay at a distance between 5 ft-25 ft, this keeps your MINIs within a safe operational distance.

Quick Tip: Always turn the Radio on first, and off last!



  The rechargeable Li-Po battery provides the power to propel your model at high speeds. You should expect 8-12 minutes of run time.

  • Once your model starts to slow, drive your model to a safe place, walk ove and turn it off.
  • Never dead short a Li-Po battery (never touch positive and negative together)
  • You must fully charge the battery before using your new model
  • Keep the battery dry at all times.
    Do Not Fully Discharge the battery! Stop and recharge when your MINIs begin to lose power! Failing to do so will result in irreparable damage to the battery!

 LiteHawk MINIs - How To Charge

Your LiteHawk MINIs come with a Li-Po battery which is inside the model. The rechargeable Li-Po battery provides the power to propel your model at high speeds. You should expect 8-12 min run time. However you do need to make sure to properly maintain your Li-Po Battery. - Li-Po batteries don’t like to be run down too low. If the voltage is dropped dramatically they will be damaged and will not recharge! Once the model starts to slow, drive your model to a safe place, walk over and turn it off. - It is recommend to charge the battery after your run and to always store the battery with a charge. Never discharge or dead short a Li-Po battery! Always have your model turned off when not in use. Make sure the switch is turned OFF.

1/ Plug the USB into your computer, TV, or USB charger. The LED light on the USB will turn RED.


2/ Plug the other end of the cable into your Litehawk MINI's battery port located at the bottom of the model. Do not force the plug, it only goes in one way. The model must have the power switch in the OFF position. The LED light on the USB Charger will turn OFF.


3/ Charge time can take up to 30 minute (shorter if charging for the first time). Once charged the LED light on the USB will turn back to solid RED.


Tip: If storing for more than 24 hours it is best to store with a fully charged battery. Failure to do so can damage the battery pack and shorten its useful life.


During charging:

- It is normal for the battery to get warm during the charging process. Do not charge the battery on a surface that is flammable or can be damaged by heat.

- Do not leave the battery and charger unattended while charging. - After charging, unplug charger from model.

- Do not store the model plugged into the charger.


 Body Removal- 3 Rubber Caps.

   The front rubber cap comes off easily. Gently wiggle the rear of the body upward, lifting the two rear rubber caps up the post, until you can grasp them and lift them off. Be very careful that you don't lose the rubber caps, they can not be replaced. If you should lose one, cut a rubber band, then tie it on the post with a double knot. It will hold the body in place.



Synchronizing Your Mini with your Transmitter

LiteHawk MINIs are ready to use - however you must follow these steps carefully:

1. Switch on the transmitter. The light will blink. 


2. Turn the MINIs power switch on. It has a red power light that will come on solid. The light on the transmitter will now turn solid.  You are ready to go!


 SCOUT MINI- Front and Rear Body Posts and Front Bumper.

 Remove the two screws that hold the front Bumper on and set it aside. 


 Now you can remove the single screw that holds the Front Body Post in place.


 Removing these two screws will allow you to set aside the Rear Body Mount.



Removing Upper Chassis Cover: Accessing the ESC , Battery and Steering Motor

  Take note of where the antenna hole is, and remove the 4 screws holding the Upper Chassis cover on, and carefully lift away.  This will also free the rear end from the Main chassis as well so be careful that it doesn't drop, all that is holding it are the two rear motor wires.


Remove the single screw that holds the ESC to the Chassis and Lift aside. To completely remove the ESC, you will need to de-solder the motor, and battery wires from the board.



SCOUT MINI: Accessing the Rear Drive Motor, Drive Shaft, and Gear Box. 

Remove the 3 screws that hold the Rear Chassis together, and carefully lift off the Drive Motor/Gear Box Cover/Suspension Arms (taking note of the wiring route for the rear drive motor), and set it aside.


The Drive Shaft just lifts out, take special note of the Wiring path for the Drive Motor if you need to replace it. The Wheels are just Press fit onto the Drive shaft. Just carefully twist and pull to remove from the Drive Shaft. They Can be replaced without taking the Vehicle apart.


To take out the Motor you must lift out the Drive Shaft, then remove the 2 screws securing the Gear Box cover and set the cover and Gears aside. You can now push out the Drive Motor from its sleeve.


 SCOUT MINI: Accessing the Front steering Linkage, Steering Spring

  Tip: If you don't have to open the Front End.. Don't. It is a difficult repair.. Doable, but not easy. 

 Remove the 2 screws that hold the Front Chassis to the Main Chassis. When you lift off the Front Chassis, the Steering Spring will be removed from the pin on the Main Chassis, where it mounts around the Steering trim button, and how it threads through the Steering bar and its locating pin. 


  The Next pictures are from the Blast, but depict the same thing, very little to no difference at all. 

First I am going to show a few pictures that show the orientation of the Front Steering Linkage with the Gear Board, and the Steering Spring.


When reassembled the Steering Spring must be positioned with an arm on either side of the mounting post for the Steering Gear. When the Wheels are turned to one side, the Spring Arm stretches, and when the steering or the wheels are released, the Steering Spring Arm will return the Steering Linkage to a center position.  The Steering Spring has to be positioned exactly.

First, remove the 2 screws that hold the front suspension to the lower chassis.


Now, very carefully lift off the Front suspension, carefully rolling it over, so that you can see the orientation of the Steering Spring with the rest of the Front End. The Spring will fall out very easily so be really careful if you wish to see it first hand. Here are a few pictures, if you didn't manage.


You can also Remove the Front Wheels to access the Steering Linkage, and the Steering Spring, it may be easier. The Wheels are press fit the same as the rear Wheels. I used a pair of Needle Nose Pliers to grip the Wheel Pin firmly, gave the Wheel a twist and a pull to separate. Then remove the Pin that holds the Steering Linkage to the Front Suspension. Once the Wheel is removed You can access the place where the Steering Spring must be placed.


Upon Reassembly, the Arms of the Steering Spring must be on either side of the Steering Gear Mounting post.  If an arm of the Spring flips over the top of the Steering Gear Mounting Post, then the spring is mounted upside down, and you will have to take it apart and turn the spring over, and reassemble.