MINI BLAST Guides
LiteHawk MINI BLAST
LiteHawk Mini's are just the answer for enjoying R/C action and adventure - just in a scaled down size! Fast, durable, quick to charge and with extended run times - they are certain to impress. Just like the name "Mini" suggests, BLAST is a smaller version of it's full-sized LiteHawk 1/12 scale brother. Do not be fooled by the small size! Mini BLAST comes equipped with soft foam tires for impressive grip and a powerful rear mounted motor - easily hitting speeds of 20 KMH (12 MPH)! Thanks to advanced electronics, Mini's run time is up to 12 minutes!
Watch for surprise "Collector Colours" available too!
| LiteHawk R/C Car and Truck Terms 101
Transmitter: The hand-held radio unit that sends throttle and steering inputs to your model. Also known as the radio or controller.
Servo: Small motor unit in your model that operates the steering mechanism.
ESC: The Electronic Speed Control provides digital proportional throttle control to the model’s motor based upon your throttle input on the radio.
The rechargeable Li-Po battery provides the power to propel your model at high speeds. You should expect 8-12 minutes of run time.
LiteHawk MINIs - How To Charge
Your LiteHawk MINIs come with a Li-Po battery which is inside the model. The rechargeable Li-Po battery provides the power to propel your model at high speeds. You should expect 8-12 min run time. However you do need to make sure to properly maintain your Li-Po Battery. - Li-Po batteries don’t like to be run down too low. If the voltage is dropped dramatically they will be damaged and will not recharge! Once the model starts to slow, drive your model to a safe place, walk over and turn it off. - It is recommend to charge the battery after your run and to always store the battery with a charge. Never discharge or dead short a Li-Po battery! Always have your model turned off when not in use. Make sure the switch is turned OFF.
1/ Plug the USB into your computer, TV, or USB charger. The LED light on the USB will turn RED.
2/ Plug the other end of the cable into your Litehawk MINIs battery port located at the side of the model. Do not force the plug, it only goes in one way. The model must have the power switch in the OFF position. The LED light on the USB will turn OFF.
3/ Charge time can take up to 30 minute (shorter if charging for the first time). Once charged the LED light on the USB will turn back to solid RED.
Tip: If storing for more than 24 hours it is best to store with a fully charged battery. Failure to do so can damage the battery pack and shorten its useful life.
- It is normal for the battery to get warm during the charging process. Do not charge the battery on a surface that is flammable or can be damaged by heat.
- Do not leave the battery and charger unattended while charging. - After charging, unplug charger from model.
- Do not store the model plugged into the charger.
Just pull off the two rubber cap retainers and lift off.
Synchronizing Your Mini with your Transmitter
LiteHawk MINIs are ready to use - however you must follow these steps carefully:
1. Switch on the transmitter. The light will blink.
2. Turn the MINIs power switch on. It has a red power light that will come on solid.
3. The light on the transmitter will now turn solid. You are ready to go!
Accessing the ESC , Battery and Steering Motor
Take note of where the antenna hole is, and remove the 4 screws holding the ESC cover on, and carefully lift away. This will also free the rear end from the front chassis as well so be carefull that it doesn't drop, all that is holding it are the two rear motor wires.
Remove the single screw that holds the ESC to the Chassis and Lift aside. To completely remove the ESC, you will need to de-solder the motor wires from the board. Turn the ESC. over to see the Battery. Take note of the Start Switch hole. You will need to de-solder the Battery if it needs replacing.
Accessing the Front steering Linkage, Steering Spring, and Front Wheels.
First I am going to show a few pictures that show the orientation of the Front Steering Linkage with the Gear Board, and the Steering Spring.
When reassembled the Steering Spring must be positioned with an arm on either side of the mounting post for the Steering Gear. When the Wheels are turned to one side, the Spring Arm stretches, and when the steering or the wheels are released, the Steering Spring Arm will return the Steering Linkage to a center position. The Steering Spring has to be positioned exactly.
First, remove the 2 screws that hold the front suspension to the lower chassis.
Now, very carefully lift off the Front suspension, carefully rolling it over, so that you can see the orientation of the Steering Spring with the rest of the Front End. The Spring will fall out very easily so be really careful if you wish to see it first hand. Here are a few pictures, if you didn't manage.
You can also Remove the Front Wheels to access the Steering Linkage, and the Steering Spring, it may be easier. The Wheels are press fit the same as the rear Wheels. I used a pair of Needle Nose Pliers to grip the Wheel Pin firmly, gave the Wheel a twist and a pull to separate. Then remove the Pin that holds the Steering Linkage to the Front Suspension. Once the Wheel is removed You can access the place where the Steering Spring must be placed.
Upon Reassembly, the Arms of the Steering Spring must be on either side of the Steering Gear Mounting post. If an arm of the Spring flips over the top of the Steering Gear Mounting Post, then the spring is mounted upside down, and you will have to take it apart and turn the spring over, and reassemble.
Tip: If you can avoid taking the Front Suspension apart ... do so. It can be very tiny and difficult to align, it is doable if necessary, just not too easy. Takes a little patience.