ACE / MAX 4x4 FAQ
Welcome to our FAQ area for LiteHawk MAX 4x4. Tips and tricks, along with step by step User Guides are right here. Check our Overview video for even more info!
LiteHawk MAX 4x4 Features:
LiteHawk R/C Car and Truck Terms 101
The rechargeable battery provides the power to propel your model at high speeds. You should expect 7-10 min run time. Extra batteries are available at www.litehawk.ca.
- Once the model starts to slow, drive your model to a safe place, walk over and turn it off.
- Never dead short a NIMH battery (never touch positive and negative together)!
- You Must FULLY charge the battery before using your new model.
- Do not leave the battery plugged into the model when it is not being used.
- Keep the battery dry at all times.
NIMH Battery and Charger Instructions:
Charge times are (2-2.5 hrs) do not leave on charge overnight. Battery should be unplugged from the charger after a maximum 4 hours.
Tips For the Following: The Front or the Rear Drive Systems Can be easily removed, without following the complete disassembly listed below. Removing the Front shocks and the Bottom skid plate, and removing the 3 screws from the front of the upper chassis plate and popping off the Steering Drag link attached to the Servo horn, and the Whole front chassis is free to work on.
The Rear Drive System is even easier to remove. With the Wheels and Shocks removed, take out the screws that are securing the Rear Axle upper links and the Rear Axle lower control arms to the Rear Axle housing. It is then free.
If you need to access any thing in the Central area, you will need to follow the directions below.
INDEX: ACE 4X4 EXPLODED VIEWS
LiteHawk ACE 4x4 Exploded Views:
There are 12 screws that hold this Body to the Chassis, 8 of them have to be removed, to open it up on its hinge.
With these 8 screws out you can open the ACE 4X4 on its Hinge. When you open it, be aware of 2 LED body light, connectors that need to be disconnected before completely opening the Body up, or you could break a wire.
If you plan to do more than a simple fix under the hood, I would suggest taking the Body right off. You can take the 2 screws out at the hinge, and leave the bumper on, or take out the 2 screws from the bottom of the Chassis and remove the whole thing. I opted for the latter.
2/ Battery & ESC
The Battery Is tied down in its cradle with a velcro strap, as above in battery installation. There is a part available that is a plastic battery tie down as shown in the Blow up above # 429031, but I believe that the velcro strap is much more efficient.
Removing the ESC
The ESC is Located on the Upper chassis pad. Take note, or a picture of how the antenna and start switch wires are located, and held in place with a bit of hot melt gun glue. The start switch is secured in place with two small screws, that will have to be removed as well. Carefully remove the 5wire servo plug, and disconnect the two motor wires. The ESC is secured in place with double sided tape. Just slip a thin knife blade (butter knife is good) and carefully start twisting and levering until the glue lets go, and the ESC comes free. You can now lift it out of the way.
If you are removing your ESC to get at something and you are putting it back. You will need to clean off the old tape from the Upper chassis and the bottom of the ESC, and replace it with new shelving or automotive, double sided tape.
3/ Removing Shocks & Wheels
Rear Shock Removal
Remove the screws from the Rear Upper Shock Chassis Mount, and the Rear Axle Lower Control arm, and lift out.
Front Shock Removal
Remove the Screw from the Upper Chassis and from the Front Shock Rocker Links, and lift out.
The Front and the Rear Wheel removal is the same. Take note of the Different screws that are used for upper and lower mounting of the front and rear shocks
LiteHawk has supplied a 5.5mm socket wrench to remove Wheels from your vehicle. Remove the Ny-loc Wheel nut with the supplied wrench.
Pull off the Wheel.
Be careful of the Hex nut underneath the Wheel. It just slides on and off, and may come off with the wheel. It holds the Axle pin in the Axle by enclosing it in a slot. If it slips off a bit on the Axle, the Axle pin may slip out.
4/ Motor, Servo and Rear Battery Tray Assembly
With the ESC out of the way, you can start by removing the 5 screws that hold the Upper Chassis ESC plate to the Lower Chassis, and lift away.
Now you can remove the last three screws that hold the Spur Gear Cover and lift that away as well.
Now you can remove the Four Screws that hold the Motor Mount to the Chassis. These are very tight, they have been Thread Locked in place. I believe that they used a glue, but I would use a blue Loc-tite, when reinstalling.
To remove the Motor from the Mount, first loosen the Grub screw holding the Pinion gear to the Motor Shaft, and remove the Pinion Gear.
Then remove the two screws that hold it to the Mount, and lift away. Again, when reinstalling, use just a tiny drop of Blue Loc-tite on the screw, just be very careful that you don't get any inside the motor.
To remove the Servo, take out the two screws holding it to the Chassis, from the bottom of the Chassis.
Then all you need do is remove the screw from the Servo horn and pull the horn off of the Servo and it is free to remove.
You will need to remove the Servo Bracket from the Servo, and install it on a new Servo if it is being replaced.
Tip: The Servo Unit can be removed with out any problems by itself, without removing anything else. Once the two screws from the bottom of the Chassis are removed, it can be manipulated to where you can remove the Steering Drag link from the Servo Horn, then lift out. Just pop the socket off of the Ball.
Rear Battery Tray Assembly, Removal
Remove these 4 Screws from the bottom of the Chassis and the Rear Battery Tray Assembly can be set aside. Don't be fooled, the other 4 screws are false plastic ones.
5/ Front & Rear Drive Systems
Separation of the Front Drive system
At this time you will want to separate the Main Drive Line from the front and rear Drive systems. Manipulate the dog bone end of the Center Drive Shaft from the front Differential Drive Cup. Then manipulate the Spur Gear from its well, and carefully slide the Telescoping Rear Drive Shaft out until it separates from the Rear Drive System. Then set it aside.
Now remove the three screws that hold the bottom Skid Plate to the front Chassis, this will separate the front Drive System from the Chassis.
Now you can remove the Steering Assembly, by removing the 2 screws from the 2 Steering Tie Rod Arms that are attached to the Wheels Steering Knuckles
Separation of the Rear Drive System
There are 4 screws that hold the Chassis to the Rear Drive System that need to be removed.
Set the Chassis aside.
6/ Removing Body Panels
7/ Outer Roll Cage Assembly
8/ Inner Roll cage
9/ Rear Drive System
With the Wheels and all Rear Axle Links and Lower Control Arms removed, take off the 4 screws that hold the Rear Suspension Link mounts for the Rear Axle upper Links, and set aside.
Remove the Wheel Hexs and the Outer Axle pins, and set aside.
Then Slide off the Rear Axle Shaft Spacers and Set aside.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the Rear Axle halves together, and carefully lift off.
To take apart the Rear Axle and the Differential, first remove the inner Axle Pin, Locking pin Cover, and the Axle Bearings.
Now you can remove the 4 screws from the Diff Ring Gear and carefully lift off.
You can remove the Planetary gears from the Axle shafts, by removing the screw in the end of the shaft. The spider gear shafts are notched, to lock together, and the ends of the shafts locate in slots on the inside of the Diff Housing. There are also small washers on the ends of the spider gear shafts.
10/ Front Drive System
To remove the Front Drive Wheel Assembly, with the wheels removed. Start by removing the Steering Knuckle. Take the Screws out from the top and the bottom of the Steering knuckle that secure it to the C hubs.
You can remove these three Screws Front upper control arm and both sides of the Front lower control arm.
You can remove the Lower Control arm without dismantling the Wheel assembly. Just remove the screws from both sides of the C hub, where it secures to the Lower Control arm, from the Front Shock link, and from the Front Lower Arm Mount.
If you need to access the Front Gear Box, then you need to remove the Lower Control arm hinge pins from both sides of the Gear Box. Then the screws attaching the Upper Control arms can be removed. Now remove the screws from the Front Shock Rocker Links and you can set the left and right front suspension assemblies aside.
To access the Differential you do not have to remove the front and rear lower arm mounts. Remove the 4 screws holding two halves of the gear box together.
The Internal Planetary and Spider gears of the Diff. are the same as the Rear Diff. The only difference is the Rear diff. has the long Rear Axle shafts coming out, and the Front diff. has the smaller Front Diff. Drive Cups.
11/ Main Drive, Tire, Battery Tray Housing
With the Main Drive free, you can replace the Spur Gear. First loosen all 4 of the Grub Screws Holding it to the Center Spur Gear Shaft. When loose, give it a little twist, and gently pull the Center Drive shaft, and the Telescoping Drive shaft from the Spur gear shaft. You can then remove the retaining screw from the Spur Gear and the Center Spur Gear Shaft, and slide the shaft out.
When reassembling, make sure that you tighten the Grub screws down on the flat sides of the Center Spur Gear Shaft.
12/ Front & Rear Shocks, Front Universal drive
13/ Front Differential, Rear Axle, Motor, Steering Servo