ACE / MAX 4x4 FAQ



Welcome to our FAQ area for LiteHawk MAX 4x4. Tips and tricks, along with step by step User Guides are right here. Check our Overview video for even more info!

LiteHawk MAX 4x4 Features:

• Easily hit speeds of 35 km/h (22 mph)
• Energy Absorbing Composite Roll Cage
• Screw On Body panels
• True 4-link Rear Suspension
• Slider Rear Driveshaft for Maximum Suspension Travel
• Solid Rear Axle with Independent Front Suspension
• Inboard Front Shocks with Cantilever Independent Suspension
• Threaded Body Shocks
• Smooth Composite Lower Chassis
• Aluminum Motor Mount
• Aluminum Suspension Mounts
• Metal Weight Balancing Plates for Even Weight Distribution
• Real Steel Centre Driveshafts
• Metal Bearing Equipped
• Real Steel Centre Input and Output Shafts
• Soft Compound All Terrain Tires
• Bead-Lock Wheels
• LED Lights
• Rechargeable battery and wall mount charger included

LiteHawk R/C Car and Truck Terms 101
Transmitter: The hand-held radio unit that sends throttle and steering inputs to your model. Also known as the radio or controller.
Servo: Small motor unit in your model that operates the steering mechanism.
ESC: The Electronic Speed Control provides digital proportional throttle control to the model’s motor based upon your throttle input on the radio.

 NIMH Battery and Charger Instructions:
Your New LiteHawk comes with a rechargeable NIMH battery. This battery powers the vehicle.
Please read the following information before using your new LiteHawk.
STEP 1: Remove the wall plug charger from the package and plug it into the wall. A Green LED light will come on to indicate power to the Charger.

                                
STEP 2: Connect the battery to the charger. The LED light will turn Red to indicate charging.

                                
STEP 3: When the LED indicator light on the charger changes colour back to Green, the battery is fully charged.

Charge times are (2-2.5 hrs) do not leave on charge overnight. Battery should be unplugged from the charger after a maximum 4 hours.
STEP 4: Unplug the battery from the charger and remove the charger from the wall plug.
STEP 5: Install battery into your vehicle.

During charging:
- It is normal for the battery to get warm during the charging process. Do not charge the battery on a surface that is flammable or can be damaged by heat.
- Do not leave the battery and charger unattended while charging.
- Do not store the battery plugged into the charger

Installation of battery into the MAX 4x4:
Place your MAX 4x4 on a clean flat surface. Avoid areas where small parts may be lost.
- Undo the velcro battery tie-down

                                     
- Slide the battery into the tray and secure with velcro tie down

                                     
- Make sure the power switch is TURNED OFF

                                     
- Place your fully charged battery in the battery slot. Connect the connector. Don’t force it, it only goes one way!

 INDEX: ACE 4X4 EXPLODED VIEWS

1.  Body
2.  Battery and ESC
3.  Removing Shocks and Wheels
4.  Motor, Servo, Rear Battery Tray Assembly
5.  Front and Rear Drive Systems
6.  Removing Body Panels
7.  Outer Roll Cage Assembly
8.  Inner Roll Cage
9.  Rear Drive System
10.  Front Drive System
11.  Main Drive, Tires, Battery Tray Housing
12.  Front and Rear Shocks, Front Universal Drive
13.  Front Differential, Rear Axle, Motor, Steering Servo.

 LiteHawk ACE 4x4 Exploded Views:

1/ Body

There are 12 screws that hold this Body to the Chassis, 8 of them have to be removed, to open it up on its hinge. 

With these 8 screws out you can open the ACE 4X4 on its Hinge. When you open it, be aware of 2 LED body light, connectors that need to be disconnected before completely opening the Body up, or you could break a wire.

If you plan to do more than a simple fix under the hood, I would suggest taking the Body right off. You can take the 2 screws out at the hinge, and leave the bumper on, or take out the 2 screws from the bottom of the Chassis and remove the whole thing. I opted for the latter.

2/ Battery & ESC

        The Battery Is tied down in its cradle with a velcro strap, as above in battery installation. There is a part available that is a plastic battery tie down as shown in the Blow up above # 429031, but I believe that the velcro strap is much more efficient.

Removing the ESC

        The ESC is Located on the Upper chassis pad. Take note, or a picture of how the antenna and start switch wires are located, and held in place with a bit of hot melt gun glue. The start switch is secured in place with two small screws, that will have to be removed as well. Carefully remove the 5wire servo plug, and disconnect the two motor wires. The ESC is secured in place with double sided tape.  Just slip a thin knife blade (butter knife is good) and carefully start twisting and levering until the glue lets go, and the ESC comes free. You can now lift it out of the way. 

If you are removing your ESC to get at something and you are putting it back. You will need to clean off the old tape from the Upper chassis and the bottom of the ESC, and replace it with new shelving or automotive, double sided tape. 

 3/ Removing Shocks & Wheels

Rear Shock Removal

Remove the screws from the Rear Upper Shock Chassis Mount, and the Rear Axle Lower Control arm, and lift out.

Front Shock Removal

 Remove the Screw from the Upper Chassis and from the Front Shock Rocker Links, and lift out.

Wheel Removal

The Front and the Rear Wheel removal is the same. Take note of the Different screws that are used for upper and lower mounting of the front and rear shocks

LiteHawk has supplied a 5.5mm socket wrench to remove Wheels from your vehicle. Remove the Ny-loc Wheel nut with the supplied wrench.

Pull off the Wheel.

Be careful of the Hex nut underneath the Wheel. It just slides on and off, and may come off with the wheel. It holds the Axle pin in the Axle by enclosing it in a slot. If it slips off a bit on the Axle, the Axle pin may slip out.

 4/ Motor, Servo and Rear Battery Tray Assembly

Motor Removal

 With the ESC out of the way, you can start by removing the 5 screws that hold the Upper Chassis ESC plate to the Lower Chassis, and lift away.

Now you can remove the last three screws that hold the Spur Gear Cover and lift that away as well.

Now you can remove the Four Screws that hold the Motor Mount to the Chassis. These are very tight, they have been Thread Locked in place. I believe that they used a glue, but I would use a blue Loc-tite, when reinstalling. 

To remove the Motor from the Mount, first loosen the Grub screw holding the Pinion gear to the Motor Shaft, and remove the Pinion Gear.

Then remove the two screws that hold it to the Mount, and lift away. Again, when reinstalling, use just a tiny drop of Blue Loc-tite on the screw, just be very careful that you don't get any inside the motor. 

Servo Removal

To remove the Servo, take out the two screws holding it to the Chassis, from the bottom of the Chassis.

Then all you need do is remove the screw from the Servo horn and pull the horn off of the Servo and it is free to remove. 

You will need to remove the Servo Bracket from the Servo, and install it on a new Servo if it is being replaced. 

Tip: The Servo Unit can be removed with out any problems by itself, without removing anything else. Once the two screws from the bottom of the Chassis are removed, it can be manipulated to where you can remove the Steering Drag link from the Servo Horn, then lift out. Just pop the socket off of the Ball. 

Rear Battery Tray Assembly, Removal

Remove these 4 Screws from the bottom of the Chassis and the Rear Battery Tray Assembly can be set aside. Don't be fooled, the other 4 screws are false plastic ones.

5/ Front & Rear Drive Systems

Separation of the Front Drive system

At this time you will want to separate the Main Drive Line from the front and rear Drive systems.  Manipulate the dog bone end of the Center Drive Shaft from the front Differential Drive Cup. Then manipulate the Spur Gear from its well, and carefully slide the Telescoping Rear Drive Shaft out until it separates from the Rear Drive System. Then set it aside.

Now remove the three screws that hold the bottom Skid Plate to the front Chassis, this will separate the front Drive System from the Chassis.

Now you can remove the Steering Assembly, by removing the 2 screws from the 2 Steering Tie Rod Arms that are attached to the Wheels Steering Knuckles

Separation of the Rear Drive System

There are 4 screws that hold the Chassis to the Rear Drive System that need to be removed.

Set the Chassis aside.

6/ Removing Body Panels

7/ Outer Roll Cage Assembly

8/ Inner Roll cage

9/ Rear Drive System

With the Wheels and all Rear Axle Links and Lower Control Arms removed, take off the 4 screws that hold the Rear Suspension Link mounts for the Rear Axle upper Links, and set aside.

Remove the Wheel Hexs and the Outer Axle pins, and set aside.

Then Slide off the Rear Axle Shaft Spacers and Set aside.

Remove the 4 screws that hold the Rear Axle halves together, and carefully lift off.

To take apart the Rear Axle and the Differential, first remove the inner Axle Pin, Locking pin Cover, and the Axle Bearings. 

Now you can remove the 4 screws from the Diff Ring Gear and carefully lift off.

You can remove the Planetary gears from the Axle shafts, by removing the screw in the end of the shaft. The spider gear shafts are notched, to lock together, and the ends of the shafts locate in slots on the inside of the Diff Housing. There are also small washers on the ends of the spider gear shafts.

10/ Front Drive System

 To remove the  Front Drive Wheel Assembly, with the wheels removed. Start by removing the Steering Knuckle. Take the Screws out from the top and the bottom of the Steering knuckle that secure it to the C hubs. 

 You can remove these three Screws Front upper control arm and both sides of the Front lower control arm.

 You can remove the Lower Control arm without dismantling the Wheel assembly. Just remove the screws from both sides of the C hub, where it secures to the Lower Control arm, from the Front Shock link, and from the Front Lower Arm Mount. 

If you need to access the Front Gear Box, then you need to remove the Lower Control arm hinge pins from both sides of the Gear Box. Then the screws attaching the Upper Control arms can be removed. Now remove the screws from the Front Shock Rocker Links and you can set the left and right front suspension assemblies aside.

To access the Differential you do not have to remove the front and rear lower arm mounts. Remove the 4 screws holding two halves of the gear box together.

The Internal Planetary and Spider gears of the Diff. are the same as the Rear Diff. The only difference is the Rear diff. has the long Rear Axle shafts coming out, and the Front diff. has the smaller Front Diff. Drive Cups. 

11/ Main Drive, Tire, Battery Tray Housing

With the Main Drive free, you can replace the Spur Gear. First loosen all 4 of the Grub Screws Holding it to the Center Spur Gear Shaft. When loose, give it a little twist, and gently pull the Center Drive shaft, and the Telescoping Drive shaft from the Spur gear shaft. You can then remove the retaining screw from the Spur Gear and the Center Spur Gear Shaft, and slide the shaft out.

When reassembling, make sure that you tighten the Grub screws down on the flat sides of the Center Spur Gear Shaft.

12/ Front & Rear Shocks, Front Universal drive

13/ Front Differential, Rear Axle, Motor, Steering Servo