LiteHawk 3 FAQ

 

 LITEHAWK III - How To Charge

  First, make sure that the Heli' is turned off.

                                   

Now plug your charger into an available USB port, the charging light will remain off.

                                   

Now plug the charger into the Heli', don't force it, it only goes in the one way. Your charger will now have a red light on the charger indicating it is charging.

                                   

Charge time can be as long as 45 minutes ( shorter if you are charging for the first time ). Once charged the red light on the charger will turn off.

                                   

  Tip: If storing for more than 24 hrs , it is best to store with a fully charged battery. Failure to do so can damage the battery pack and shorten its useful life.

During charging: - It is normal for the battery to get warm during the charging process. Do not charge the battery on a surface that is flammable or can be damaged by heat. - Do not leave the battery and charger unattended while charging. - After charging, unplug charger from model. - Do not store the model plugged into the charger.

LITEHAWK III - How To Sync

  • Make sure that the model is turned OFF and locate a flat level surface.

                                       

    • Turn the LITEHAWK III on. Its lights will come on blinking. Place the Heli' on the flat surface, you must do this within five seconds of turning the power switch ON.

                                         

      • Turn on the power for the Controller. Its power light will come on blinking. 

                                           

        • Move the left control stick ( this is also the throttle stick ) all the way up, then all the way back down.
                  
          • You will hear a beep. The controllers light is now solid, and the model is now bound. The Heli's lights will remain blinking throughout. 

            The LITEHAWK III MUST be on a flat surface in order to digitally level itself, otherwise the model will not sync to the controller.

             LITEHAWK III- Auto Take Off, Auto Land, Auto Hover.

            Your Litehawk Helicopter is equipped with a barometric sensor which allows for Altitude hold capability. The helicopter will maintain your desired height while flying. 

            1. Auto Take Off- Press the Auto Take Off button to start your heli's rotor blades. The Auto Take Off button is also the left throttle stick but presses in as a button as well.

                                               

                      To lift off you must increase the throttle carefully until you attain the height             that you want.  Rotor wash, fan breezes open window breezes will all                   conspire to change that height.                  

                     2.  Auto Land-
            • Press the Auto Land Button and the Heli' will land itself.  If it lands to slowly, the rotor wash will keep it airborne and it won't land, you may have to force the last few inches by reducing the throttle to nothing, then hold the throttle down until the motors have stopped.

                                              

                      3.  Altitude Hold- You will notice the left stick is spring loaded and rests  in the center position. If you want to climb, or increase altitude, push up on the throttle stick and release when you reach your desired height. To   lower the Helicopters height just push down on the throttle stick.

             LITEHAWK III- Screws

            The LITEHAWK III does not have any replacement screws available, so take special care not to lose them. I suggest that you take your toy apart over an old white hand towel, that way you have less chance of losing those tiny bouncing screws. There are only 4 different screws on the whole heli'. 

            • 4 special screws with a wide flange to hold the Landing Gear on
            • 4 special long screws that are made for the 4 rotor blades (the longest screw on the Heli')
            • 4 special screws that are a little shorter than the rotor blade screws but longer than all the rest. One for each of the tail boom support rods and two in the bottom of the chassis that holds the lower chassis to the upper chassis. 
            • Last, all the rest of the screws are small and the same size. 
            Tip: Don't over tighten these tiny screws, just snug, they strip the plastic that they anchor to very easily.
             

            LITEHAWK III- Main Rotor Blade Replacement

            - Looking at the blades, you will see a screw that attaches the blade to the blade grip. Unscrew this screw and remove the blade. Take special care that you don't misplace these special screws, they are the longest on the Heli'.

                    

            - Replace the same way as it was removed. Make sure you have the "A" blades on the top, and "B" on the bottom. The blades have the letters near the screw hole.
            - Do not over tighten the screws, the blades need to "swing" in order to perform properly.                                                                                                       

            LITEHAWK III - Tail Rotor Blade Replacement

            Just firmly lift up on the blade at the hub, while holding the motor with your other hand.
            There is an up side to the blade, the hub has a short side and a long side. The  short side is up on top.

                     

            To replace just press it on to the motor spindle, not tight! Give it a flick with your finger, and if it spins free, your good, if not hold the motor tight and pull the blade up just enough for it to spin freely.

            LITEHAWK III- Removing the Landing Gear

            There are 4 special screws with a wide flange to hold the Landing Gear in place on the Lower Chassis. Try to not lose these screws. Remove and the Landing gear just slips off.

                    

            LITEHAWK III- Removing the Body

            Remove the two screws that hold the body to the Chassis of the Heli', and gently slide it back off of the Lower Chassis, until it just clears the battery.

                    

            You can leave it like that or gently press the LED lite out of the front of the Body and set it aside.

                    

            To replace, use a set of long tweezers to press the lite back into the body, and slide it back on its track over the battery and reattach with the two screws. 

            LITEHAWK III- Removing the Battery

            The Battery is held in place by  some double sided tape in a special cradle up front. It is connected to the Heli's ESC board by plug in. Don't pull on the wires to unhook it, or you may break the wires.

                    

            To reattach, make sure that you plug it in the correct way, it only fits properly one way.

            LITEHAWK III-  Removing the Tail Rotor Assembly

            You will need to remove the 9 side body screws from the right hand side of the Heli' with the tail rotor wires running inside of the upper chassis steel cover plate. Then the 2 tail rotor support rod screws. Don't lose the two tail rotor support screws, they are a longer screw, the same as the 2 screws that hold the ESC to the Lower Chassis. They are the only 4 screws that length. 

                     

             Set the tail rotor support rods aside. These rods are a specific right and left when you go to replace them. They only fit on the correct side. Now remove the battery from its cradle, so you can access the solder points on the ESC. Desolder the red and black wires from the Tail Rotor Assembly. Now remove the single screw that holds the Tail Rotor assembly on, and carefully pull it out of the rear of the Heli's main chassis. You may have to give it a bit of a gentle twist to get it to move, and you can slide it right out. 

                        

            LITEHAWK III- Removing Upper Rotor Head

            Just loosen the single screw, and lift the upper rotor head off.

                                               

            Take note of the recessed flat spot on the upper rotor head shaft that the screw attaches to. The screw has to set on the flat area or it won't stay tight, and the head will be loose.

                                               

             Secure the Screw tight when you re-install. 

            LITEHAWK III- Removing the Stabilizer Boom

            First remove the two boom connectors that attach it to the Upper Rotor Head. Now you need to press the steel pin out of the boom. Use a heavy pin or very thin nail. Press until it is out a bit then remove with a pair of needle nose pliers.

                   

             When reinstalling, press the boom connector carefully back on to the ball of the Boom, with out pushing past the ball. In order to work in needs to attach and float freely on the ball.

            LITEHAWK III- Lower Rotor Head, Main Gears, Access Pinion Gears.

             Remove 4 Lower chassis Side plate screws and 1 Tail Rotor Support Rod Screw, from the right hand side of the Heli'. Set aside the Support Rod and Side Plate.

                                              

            Now remove two Lower chassis Side plate screws and 1 Tail rotor Support Rod Screw, from the left hand side of the Heli'. Set aside the Support Rod. You can remove the Left Side plate completely if you want to, you just don't have to, unless you are replacing the ESC.

                                              

            Now remove the 2 screws from the bottom of the Lower Chassis, and carefully move the Lower chassis with the ESC and landing gear aside. The Upper Rotor shaft and Gear just slips out of the Central Shaft.

                   

             The Lower Rotor Head needs its main gear pried off, with a twist from a flat screw driver. Get the edge of the screw driver right in to the central hub and give a twist, the gear and the shaft should separate. The Gear coming off and the Shaft lifting out.

                      

            You now have access to both Pinion Gears. They are just pressed on.

                                               

            LITEHAWK III- Access Upper Chassis, Motors, ESC/Receiver

            Remove 5 Upper Chassis Side Plate Screws, and Slide off 2 plastic bushings from both sides of the Heli'. Take note that the Rear motor and Rear Rotor tail boom motor have wires that run down the right hand side of the Heli' just under the Right Upper Chassis Side Plate. Now set the Bushings and Side Plates aside.

                     

            To Remove the Motor, just press up on the Pinion Gear and the motor will pop out.

                   

            To remove the Motors, the Rear Tail boom, or to change out the ESC, you will have to desolder the wires necessary for your repair.  Here is a picture of the ESC's 10 solder points. Once every thing is desoldered you can remove the Landing gear and the ESC is ready to replace.

                                              
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