CHAMPION FAQ

 
  

Features:

  • Self Righting Hull
  • Durable Components
  • Speed 35km/h (22mph)
  • High Output 550 Motor and ESC are all water cooled - protecting them from overheating!
  • Top Cover is fitted with a water resistant gasket!
  • Twin-hull design lifts the boat out of the water at high speed.
  • Controller and Boat Stand Included
  • Rechargeable NIMH battery with Wall Mount charger included
  • Reusable packaging so you can easily store your toy and keep all the accessories together!
  • Hull Material: Plastic Molded
  • 2 blade propeller
  • 2 Channel 2.4 Ghz Trans./Receiver
  • Length 59cm ( 23" ) 
  • Width 23cm ( 9" )

LiteHawk CHAMPION - Operational Range

Your LiteHawk CHAMPION comes with a 2.4 Ghz radio system, which allows you to play without the fear of ever losing control! Race or play with countless other drivers. The range of your boat is approximately 250ft which, due to its size, is in excess of normal vision. The farther the boat goes away from you the smaller it will become and the harder it will be to determine the boat’s direction We suggest you drive at a distance between 20ft-50ft, this keeps your boat within a safe operational distance. Also, it is important to remember. As your batteries in the Transmitter/Radio lose their strength, its signal strength will also diminish. If you haven't renewed your batteries recently, keep it in closer.
- Make sure your hands are clear of the propeller and rudder when you are placing the boat in and out of the water. For your first few runs try to keep the boat within 10-30ft of you so you can see how the boat reacts to steering and throttle input. Once you have more experience you can venture a little farther away. Remember the controls are proportional just like a real boat. Ease on and off the throttle until you are comfortable. 

LiteHawk CHAMPION Self Righting:

The left side of the boat has a flood chamber. Allowing water to flow into the chamber when the boat is upside down. The weight of the water in the hull will upright the hull, or at least get it far enough over, for the prop to dig back into the water. Once the propeller is back in the water and CHAMPION is almost right side up. Apply throttle. As the boat moves forward, the water flows back out of the chamber via the transom hole.

       

 

LiteHawk CHARGER 2 - NIMH Battery and Charger Instructions:

STEP 1: Remove the wall plug charger from the package and plug it into the wall. 

STEP 2: Connect the NIMH battery to the charger. 

                                  

STEP 3: Leave the Battery plugged in for 4 hours. Charge times are approximately 4 hrs. Do not leave on charge overnight. Battery should be unplugged from the charger after a maximum 5 hours.

STEP 4: Unplug the battery from the charger and remove the charger from the wall plug.

During charging:
- It is normal for the battery to get warm during the charging process. Do not charge the battery on a surface that is flammable or can be damaged by heat. 
- Do not leave the battery and charger unattended while charging.
- Do not store the battery plugged into the charger
 

LiteHawk CHAMPION- Installation of battery into the boat:

Place your LiteHawk CHAMPION on its supplied boat stand to avoid damage to the rudder and propeller. It is best to always have your boat on the provided stand when not in the water.

                                  


- Remove the hatch on the deck by turning all 4 of the latches and lifting the cover up from the back of the boat, moving it forward just a bit so that it clears the catch on the front bottom of the hull.

                                      

  When replacing the Deck Hatch make sure that when it is placed on the hull, it is slid all the way back, so it is even with the rear transom. Then close the latches  on the Hatch to lock the Hatch down.

- Insert the battery on the left or port side of the boat hull. You will see a Velcro strip on the hull. Match up the Velcro on the battery pack to hold it in place.

                                  


- Plug the Red battery plug into the matching plug in the boat. This is a tight fit, but the plug is keyed so it will only go in one way.

                                  

- There is a waterproof rubber gasket inserted into the lip where the hull joins the main upper deck. Always make sure it’s secured and in position before reinstalling the top hatch. 
- Reinstall the top hatch.
- Do not store the battery plugged into the boat.

- Remember to disconnect the battery and remove it after use. Always re-charge the battery if you intend to store the product for more than 24 hours. failure to do so will damage the battery.

LiteHawk CHAMPION - Binding the Receiver and Transmitter:
If for some reason your boat is not connected with your Transmitter make sure you are turning the Transmitter (Pistol Grip radio) on first and then plug the battery into the boat.

      

If this doesn’t solve the issue you will need to bind the Transmitter to the boat’s receiver.

- Switch on the Transmitter, making sure the indicator light is red.

- Plug in the battery into the boat. The Receivers power button will be red.

- Press down the BIND button on the boat’s receiver. 

                                 

  
- The receiver’s green light will turn on to indicate that the binding has been successful.

                                 
- The boat should now accept inputs from the transmitter.
If you were unsuccessful in binding the boat to the Transmitter unplug the battery in the boat and turn off the radio. Then repeat the binding process.

 LiteHawk CHAMPION - Maintenance and Storage.

  When you have finished playing with your Champion, disconnect the battery and switch off the transmitter. Remove the battery from the boat and leave the hatch off to allow moisture to completely evaporate. When completely dry, reinstall the hatch and store the boat away. You should fully recharge the battery once it has cooled down, and store it free of the boat. If storing for a long period, you should remove the batteries from the transmitter as well. Every 3 months or so a top up charge for the battery is recommended as well.  If you have been running in salt water, you should clear the cooling lines of the water by blowing on the discharge hose until clear.  

   After the 2nd or 3rd time you use your boat. You should lubricate your flex /drive shaft for smooth running and keeping the shaft tube water tight. You will need 2 10mm wrenches. The Champion has a metal double nut coupler with a single grub screw attaching it to the motor shaft. Leave the grub screw alone unless removing the motor.

                                  

you need 2 wrenches to loosen the nuts, then totally loosen off the nuts.

       

 Grasp the propeller and carefully pull the shaft out of the coupler, and about 3/4 of the way out of the boat.

       

Wipe off any old grease, and apply a small dab of axle, or marine grease to the flex shaft and spread it over the length.. it doesn't take very much at all.

                                  

Then reassemble in reverse order, fully inserting the shaft back into the coupler and tightening it back up. You should be all ready for you next run!

 LiteHawk CHAMPION- Replacing the Two Bladed Propeller:

  You will need an 7mm wrench to remove Ny-Loc Nut that holds the Propeller on to the Flex shaft. This Nylon Prop has solid position locks that match a brass fitting on the Flex Shaft. The Propeller will spin true with the same speed of the Motor shaft.

      

      

 LiteHawk CHAMPION-Replacing the Electronics:

   Receiver- Removing the Receiver is just plug and play.  Begin with pulling off the rubber cap that is holding the antenna to a post on the inner chassis. This will free the antenna. Also undo the velcro strap holding the Receiver in place.

      

Now before you unplug the ESC and Servo wire harnesses from the Receiver, closely note how the connector clips are attached to the receiver.. which color wires are at the top. It is really easy to install these clips upside down by accident. 

      

                              Reverse the procedure to reinstall. 

  Servo- Removing the Servo is just plug and play. Unplug the Servo Wire Harness from the Receiver.

                               

Now you can remove the Screw from the Servo Horn, and the two screws securing the Servo to the Servo Bracket that is attached to the Inner Chassis. Lift out.

      

Reverse the Procedure to reinstall. Be careful to attach the Servo Horn in the same position that you removed it, so that the Rudder is getting its full movement.

   ESC- Removing the ESC is just plug and Play. Begin with unplugging the ESC Wire Harness from the Receiver.

                                 

Now you can unplug the two motor wires. Now place a flat screw driver or a butter knife just under the front edge of the ESC Bracket Clip, and twist up just a tiny bit as you push/slide the ESC out of the Restraining Bracket.

                                 

Now you can get to the water cooling lines and remove them once you have noted their positions for re-installation.

      

  550 Motor- If you are replacing your motor, you will need to de-solder the motor wires from your old Motor and Solder them to the New Motor. 

  Start with unplugging the two Motor Wires, and taking note of the Water cooling lines and there positions for re-installation, and then unplugging them as well.

                                 

Now loosen the Grub screw holding the Flex shaft to the Motor Shaft, and draw the flex shaft away, just a bit, from the motor. Then Loosen the Heavy screws that secure the Motor to the motor mount.. Just loosen them, don't remove them just yet.  Now take out the two screws that are holding the motor mount to the boats inner chassis, and lift both of them out.

                                   

Now you can easily remove the two heavy screws that hold it to the motor, and it is free.

                                

If you are replacing the Motor, you might be able to save the Water Jacket. It is glued to the Motor with a Silicone Adhesive. So remove the jackets securing clip, then you will have to carefully pry the Jacket from the old Motor. Clean up the old adhesive really well, then apply new Silicone Adhesive to the motor or the Jacket for re-installation.

      

To re glue the Jacket to a new motor, attach with the securing clip, then loosely attach the Motor mount, pressing the mount on fully to the locating pins and holding there while you use a pencil to mark where the Jacket sits. That will give you a good Idea where to put a bead of Sealant for the new motor.

                                 

Run the bead just inside your pencil line on the Motor, or on the inside of the Jacket itself, being careful not to plug either of the water cooling line holes.

                                 

Press the Jacket with sealant in place, secure with clip and Motor Mount so that it is firmly held in place, and let it dry for the recommended time stated on your sealant container. Once dry, Reinstall your Motor in reverse order.

  LiteHawk CHAMPION- Balloon

This is the last hope.. hail Mary.. Safety, flotation Device. If every thing else fails, you don't want to be with out this little device. Just a small breath of air, don't blow it up, and it will keep your boat afloat, instead of hiding in Davey Jones's locker. A forgotten Hatch gasket, or forget to put the Drain plug back in the Transom. Maybe you didn't secure the Flex shaft correctly, and it came right out of the boat. All of these have happened to more than 1 person and the ones with out the balloon all sank like a stone! So, protect your investment and secure it to one of the forward stanchions with the with the zip tie provided. A ping pong ball will work just as well, but the Red Balloon looks a lot nicer!

                                  
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