LiteHawk PRO FAQ

 

 

 

 

  • 4 Channel IR (Infrared)
  • Operational range: Line of sight, 10 meters (33 feet)
  • Pitch (FWD / REV) trim, Yaw (Rotational/Turn) trim
  • 3.7 Volt LiPo (Lithium-ion Polymer) on-board battery
  • Up to 10 minutes of flight time per charge
  • (not including blades): 195 mm (7 3/4 inches)
  • (including blades): 222 mm (8 3/4 inches)
  • Body width (not including blades): 50 mm (2 inches)
  • Body height (to top of rear shaft): 95 mm (3.75 inches)
  • Rotor blade diameter: 185 mm (7.25 inches)
  • Other features:
  • Power Boost Button
  • Spare parts package
  • Charge-from-controller cable built into controller (charge your heli from your controller!)
  • USB Charger Included

LiteHawk PRO Instruction Manual
"Remote controller does not turn on(no red LED)"
-Cause: Batteries are not inserted correctly.
-Fix: Make sure they are inserted correctly. Refer to manual for correct orientation.
-Cause: Batteries are dead.
-Fix: Replace with new batteries.

"Helicopter will not turn on(no Lights On)"
-Cause: Battery is dead
-Fix: Recharge battery.
-Cause: Battery wire has come off ESC.
-Fix: Remove canopy to check if negative or positive battery lead has come off. If it has, re-solder back on to appropriate terminal.

"Helicopter/Remote will not sync to each other"
-Cause: Either helicopter or remote is OFF.
-Fix: Make sure both are in the ON position.
-Cause: Batteries inside remote are dead or dying.
-Fix: Replace with fresh batteries
-Cause: Syncing steps in manual were not followed correctly.
-Fix: Follow these steps.

1. Turn on Remote (Flashing Green LED).
2. Turn on Helicopter (Lights should come on in 1-3 seconds)
3. Move left (throttle) stick on the remote fully up, then fully down. The Green light should go solid.
**If green light does not turn solid, batteries may be dead/dying **
4. Once solid, it is synced.
5. You are ready to fly.

"Helicopter moves around or topples over during lift-off"
-Cause: Helicopters of all sizes are always most unstable/vulnerable during take-off as they must fight a force called "ground effect". The apparent effect occurs because the ground is pushing back on the air being forced down by the helicopter. As the helicopter moves higher the force pushing back become less. Anything above 8" is considered "safe".
-Fix: Use more throttle/speed to get out of the "ground effect" zone. Doing this quickly will result in easy to control take-off behavior.
-Cause: starting surface is carpet or some type of fabric.
-Fix: Start from smooth surfaces as some fabrics stick to landing gear causing uneven balance during take off.

"Helicopter will not lift off"
-Cause: Battery is not charged.
-Fix: Recharge battery.
-Cause: Drive gears are damaged (stripped or missing some teeth). Helicopter will be noticeably noisy.
-Fix: Replace gears with part #285-414 and #285-415.
-Cause: Pinion gear has come off motor shaft.
-Fix: See here >>>>
-Cause: Lower rotor mount slips on shaft.
-Fix: Replace lower rotor mount with part #285-414
-Cause: Damaged battery. Refer to proper charging procedure in manual to ensure damage was not a result of over discharging.

 "Only one set of rotor blades spin OR one spins slower"**Can be either A-blades or B-blades**

-Cause: Debris in rotor shafts, gears or mounts.
-Fix: Clean debris so all parts move freely.
-Cause: Pinion gear has come off motor shaft.
-Fix: See Step by Step Instructions here: 

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

 1. Remove Canopy by removing the two screws (one per side) and slide Canopy away from the Chassis. Gently push the   Nosecone LED Light out of the Canopy to free it from the assembly. 
 Caution: Do not yank the Canopy away from the Chassis as this will damage the Nosecone LED Light connections.

2. Remove the screw that binds Upper Rotor Mount to its shaft and gently slide it up and away, as shown in Figure 2

3. Remove both Metal Chassis plates by removing screws as shown

4. Remove the two screws as indicated, to separate the Motor Mount from the rest of the Plastic Chassis (no need to remove Landing Gear). Caution: Do not yank the two assemblies apart as you may break wires or soldered connections.

5. Slide away Main Gear Shaft and gently twist off the remaining Main Gear from Lower Rotor Mount Assy. Gently lift out the Lower Rotor Mount Assy.

6. Shown here in Figure 5 are Front and Rear Pinions shown seated correctly. Typically they are only held by friction.

If one falls off, common treatment is to scuff the motor shaft with emery paper to increase friction and re install the pinion.

REASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
1. Slide in the Lower Rotor Mount Assy and twist on its Main Gear. 
2. Slide in the Main Gear Shaft and install the Upper Rotor Mount by aligning binding screw with flat and tightening screw. This may take a couple attempts as your intention is to reduce lash in the assembly while allowing all parts to spin freely. Do not overtighten binding screw as the threads on this part are notoriously easy to strip.
3. Reattach the Motor Mount to the plastic chassis with the two screws.
4. Install Chassis plates to both sides and tighten screws. Reattach Tail Support Rods and tighten screws.
5. Reinstall the Nosecone LED Light into the Canopy and slide it onto the Chassis. 
8. Slide Canopy back onto the Chassis. Reinstall the securing screws.
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